I visited Kanchanaburi Tiger Temple DAYS Before Its Clampdown

I visited Kanchanaburi Tiger Temple DAYS Before Its Clampdown

Day 6 – Day 7 | 25th – 26rd May 2016

After about 13 gruelling hours (770 kilometers) on the road (Try going extremely fast on Thailand road and you are either going to get yourself killed or someone/ something killed) from Seatran Pier (Don Sak, Surat Thani, Thailand), I finally reached Kanchanaburi Tiger Temple on May 26th 2016, about 2am in the morning.

The ladies were so friendly, I have to take a photo with them.

 

After 13 hours on the road, finally reached destination. Dead tired, but this quick shot is a must.

Tiger Temple is located in the Sai Yok District of Thailand’s Kanchanburi Province (160km West of Bangkok, pretty near the Myanmar Border.)

Known as Wat Pha Luang Ta Bua Yanasampanno, it is a Buddhist temple. It is infamous for having tigers in their premises.
Founded in 1994, it received their first tiger cub from the villagers in 1999. The first cub died and soon after more tiger cubs were given to them. In 2016 the tiger count exceeded 150.

The controversial temple has been in the light time and again for commercial gains and trafficking some of it’s animals. However it has been cleared. This time round, just 4 days after my visit to this temple, a raid was done on the temple. 40 dead tiger cubs were found preserved in a freezer, along with a bear, a binturong, and other animals/ parts.

The temple has of now shifted the remaining 137 tigers into a new home at a governmental sanctuary in Ratchaburi Province, about 90 km south of Kanchanaburi Province

For the detailed Tiger Temple Raid story Click HERE.

Back to my trip:

A day before, when my entire Diving Course ended on Koh Tao Island, there was no more Ferry back to Mainland. SHUCKS. Which means, I have to sleep in the island for 1 night for the following day’s ferry. I planned to sleep in the tent, as my dive center (Crystal Dive) allowed me to use their showering facility even though I am no longer their client/ customer.

While I was purchasing a ferry ticket back to mainland (reasonably priced), the ticket man asked me, so where are you going to stay for the night (knowing that I have to stay for the night as my ticket is for the following day). I said Tent. He had no idea what it meant. I showed him physically my Tent. He immediately understood. After about 5mins of processing my ticket, he handed it to me, WITH a key. I was like, Umm.. what is this key for? It looks like a room key..and I cant be wishing for what I am thinking.

GOSH. Guess what! The wish came through!

He Pointed Up.. and said “Go…Nevermind..free..” he said. I thought he was joking, I asked again to make thing clear. He said “Yes, Go, Free” again. I clasped my hands and bowed to him very sincerely. I thanked him so much. Wow.. I have never met so many kind people in my life before. It might be the perks of travelling alone.. I dont know..

Reached the mainland safely the following early afternoon and went to my vehicle. Still there in 1 piece, albeit with sand/dust on it. Rode till late…like 2am..(as mentioned in the first paragraph)

As it was that late, or you can call it very early in the morning, I decided to ask the tiger temple guard if I can pitch my tent in their compound as they have a bathing facility there. Initially he allowed after about 10minutes. Just as I was going to remove the stuffs from the vehicle, he came up to me and told me that the higher authorities do not allow me to pitch my tent there. Well ok, I left the temple and since I am so darn tired already, I decided to just find a hostel/ hotel to sleep in.

Everywhere was completely dark other than my Front. I couldnt find any hotel for 15 mins in the vicinity , had to rely on the GPS to bring me to a homestay. Well I shouldn’t have done that. The only way into the homestay was through a rocky gravelled up slope way. I did not see that the owners have brought down the barrier, upon reaching the top, I only noticed that barrier popped up in my sight. I was busy looking at where my front wheel was gonna go, while everywhere was pitch dark.

I was like, Shucks, I have to make a roll back down on the slope, impossible to U turn a 300kg machine on these kind of condition. I was slightly panicking already as 1 side of my leg was barely able to touch the ground as there were rocks that elevated my wheels higher than my leg.

Before I knew it, I toppled. I jumped off the falling bike. A loud bang due to the extra weight in the side boxes. Loads of nonsense inside. Nonsense that helps me along the way in breakdowns. I cant balance the weight with only 1 leg tiptoeing on the inclined rocky soil/mud road.

How i managed to pick up that 660lbs of dropped metal. Unfortunately my riding sch teaches the wrong  (or you could say, harder) method of picking up heavy bikes (Which is almost impossible to carry it back up and it might also hurt your back), as to what I did in the beginning (wrong method) of the video. I was already exhausted from a continuous 13 hours on the road and my negligence just had to happen at the wrong time!

Trust me when I say Im really..really..tired..I really felt like sleeping on the soil already. At the end of the video the soft mud/ rock actually gave way(with that sound) to the weight of the sidestand due to the small surface area and I had to grab a flat rock to support the stand.

I took another 15 mintures to roll down the motocycle down the slope. Whilst doing that, the bike almost toppled again into the bushes, had I gave up holding the weight of it. I was already inside the bushes preventing the motorcycle from toppling over.

That kind of scenario if there were red ants biting me, I would have to endure holding it too, if not, problem will be amplified.
It would not only have dropped, but I can call it capsize. It would have ended up being in an inverted capsized position down the slope, if I decided to give up my strength. How am I going to pick up an inverted 300kg motorcycle on a darn soil that my boots is already sinking in?

My boots were already literally sinking into the the soil while preventing the motorcycle from toppling on me/ capsizing down the slope, what makes me think that the side stand wont sink into the soil? Its that difficult alone..sometimes I wish I have a buddy at this point of time.

The quote always say…” If you want to go Fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together”
That makes perfect sense for me. gosh..

Sweating profusely, I finally brought it back to the normal road.

I was too tired to chain up the vehicle already, I just locked the handlebar, and I went to pitch my tent in the compound of the homestay. (Able to walk in without climbing over anything, barrier was for vehicles only).

I did not care already. I am so dead tired. Really..really.. tired.  Who wouldnt be tired waking up at 6am (to catch the 1st ferry from Koh tao back to mainland) and be still awake at 5am?  Worst still 13 hours on the road. Madness! Crazy, I wouldnt do it again.
I think this is the first time I am awake for 23 hours. Holyyyy shit.

By the time I pitched the tent and set everything into the tent, it was around 0430hours already.. Heck.. I was sweating all over but I just fell into a deep sleep within less than 5mins of settling into the tent. Probably within 2 mins.

I was at the point where I do not care if the owner of the homestay comes up slamming into my tent already..at least I have a few hours of sleep now (assuming they wake up at around sunrise). What most can they do to me? Rape my ass? Rob me? I have little cash on me mate.. At most I sincerely apologise and just walk away…

 

Few hours later I woke up, not proper 6 hours sleep but at least I am not dead tired anymore. Maybe about 3 hours+ of sleep. What woke me up. Not the owner that bash into my tent (I was expecting that). Its the sunlight that woke up. Its shining into the tent. The heat. You get the point. I went to seek help from the owner.

As my left footpeg broke into half from the topple. Left footpeg broke into half means I cant ride. If i ride, my leg would be dangerously hanging in the air. Honda has made the footpeg bendable, but only to a certain extend, in case theres a fall. Japanese makers are damn good in their products they produce always. Quality VS Quantity for them usually.

This time because of the uneven surface and the stupid rocks protruding at different heights, the foot peg has just got to land on one of the higher rocks itself. The ability to bend didnt save it, because the high rock still pushed the footpeg beyond what it can bend in the hard topple. So there goes the left foot peg.

I found out that the owner of the homestay is a old couple in their 50s – early 60s. No children. They saw me actually, they saw my tent. BUT they did not bother to shoo me away from their compond. Again I meet kind people. Thailand people are really kind actually. Despite them not being able to speak a full sentence of english, I was still able to explain to them what happened through body signs and body languages.

They helped me get it replaced in about 3 hours.  I cant repair it by myself, because I do not have a spare footpeg. I know they are Thais, they have contacts, they know people around the area. They called for a mobile mechanic that has a footpeg meant for small 100cc motorcycles (Kup Kai, those village motorcycles). It fits my 1000cc motorcycle nicely. Great!

I paid the mobile mechanic 200 Thai Baht/
USD 5.9 for that part and service. I gave the old couple 1000 Thai Baht  (overkill but without their help I would not be able to move) and I decided to stay with them for 1 night (They offered me an air conditioned room at no cost but I told them I dont want to waste their time as they need to clean the room after I leave).
They agreed to my choice: living in my tent inside their hall with shower facilities With fan blowing into my tent. In that way I dont need to use up their time.I feel for the old couple. I dont think they are earning much as their homestay is in a pretty secluded area (opposite Tiger Temple). I just used their fan blowing into my tent and oh it feels so good enough for me! Pretty satisfied with that! I dont require 5 star hotels. They even cooked me first meal of the day! Budget, simple traveller.

After the main objective was completed (replacing the broken footpeg), I headed to the Tiger Temple.
Well it was just somehow opposite the road but I still took my motorcycle out. Have it, utilise it! Its a test ride anyway in case the footpeg broke!

Upon entering the Tiger temple gate,
I had to pay 600 Baht/ USD 17. Holy shit, that is daylight robbery price!

Ok, I will just pay, because I want to see how the tigers and the conditions are inside (Main objective), not to take some stupid selfies with the tigers and gram it.

A photo outside Tiger Temple
A photo outside Kanchanaburi Tiger Temple

What I saw with my eyes is a huge horror to me.

How these tigers are treated right in front of my eyes is a horror. I dont know what really happens beyond the eyes of the public, but what I saw there within a short visit there disgust me. You can only imagine behind the walls.

Contrary to what people believe, the tigers are not treated well over there. NO, I do not see it at all. It used to be the monks walking them on leash, now i see local thais/ foreigners working for the temple, walking them on leash. What happened to the monks taking care of them?

We were told to walk behind the tigers..The contradictory from their T shirt though.

While I was walking inside the area where they leashed up the tigers for us tourist to take photo with, I witnessed ridiculous actions done with my eyes.

One tiger was actually dozing off and going to sleep. The thai worker intentionally actually sprayed water on it’s face to wake it up. Of course it did wake up. How would you like that on your face when you are about to fall asleep? Wow, just wow.

Another thai lady worker was seen repeatedly smacking another tiger’s mouth hard just for her entertainment. Throughout the entire time, these local workers were shouting, screaming and laughing among themselves at the top of their voices in the “tiger arena”, as if they are in a club. They wouldnt even be doing that in a shopping centre!

Well they are supposed to show good examples to visitors visiting the temple, but it shows they just dont give a f*** about the welfare of the animals and the professionalism of their jobs.

For 600 thai baht entry fee/ USD 17 just to take some stupid photos with the tigers and touch them, while seeing these tigers getting treated like dirt, I wouldnt come back here again, nor would I recommend tourist to pay to support this kind of crap.

This is like a Gang Bangers Market. High DB Levels. People Screaming and laughing around. Absurd. Think the tigers like it? Will you even you like it?

Good thing is that it is Closed for good now.

What I feel is that the tigers are now being exploited more for money than like anything else in the past, where the temple was smaller and less known. This amount of money would rather be spent to see wild and free tigers hunting in their natural environment that are used properly for environmental funds.

Left the area soon enough, nothing much to see and 600 Baht is just daylight robbery.

Stopped by a roadside stall to have some food
Thai Fly Lice
We have flies as an extra ingredient!

On the way to Bangkok to meet my sister and le famalia (Arriving in 2 days from now), I dropped by The Death Railway in Rover Kwai over Mae Kong River. Nothing much to see there, too many tourist. Just that I know many Allied POW (Prisoners of war) and Asian Civilians were forced to build the bridge by the Japanese. Many died of all kinds from building the bridges.

Gave the local man sitting behind all my food. He cried and thanked me for it. He seemed to need some financial help.
Bollywood in River Kwai Death Railway Bridge

More Info on the bridge Here.

I had a photo with them before I carried on my journey.

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